the compressor has burnt out 3 times once every year after 09. ive also changed the dryer and expansion valve. ive had to recharge the freon but it is still blowing warm air. what could be the problem with the compressor burning out? and what could be the reason for the air blowing warm? it is cold at the vent but its not blowing enough to get to me. its never been like the first time i bought the car.

Goodman Manufactoring Company
Model CK24-18
Serial 9807510241
Compressor was replaced 2-3 years ago
Inside coils replaced 1-2 years ago
In all the years I’ve had the unit (since 1998), it has never cooled the house. House has double pane windows and 8 inches rockwool and 4 inches corning (pink rolls) on top.

Now it’s "in the toilet". pipes outside were warm and dry. Temp outside was 98F and inside 85F and air in vent 78F. Next day, pipes outside are 1 1/2 inches of ice. Air still flowing across inside coils. Temp exactly the same. hvac guy comes out and charges with freon. Waited 3 hours. Temp outside 98F, inside 92F, air in vent 77F after running ac 2 hours. Pipes outside (big one) barely cool to touch, small line feel like "air temp".

In early spring, inside coils would ice over about once a week. Air would not flow over coils. Shut it off an hour then turn it on, works. Even then, outside 90, inside 80, in vent 75.

Help
This is in the Dallas-Fort Worth area – yeah humidity is a mother. It is a moderate 3 bedroom house.

The A/C guy put in 5 lbs of freon – just found out how much. Seems a lot. At this point i’m suspecting 2 problems: leak and puny 2 ton. For some reason, I thought it was 3 ton. A/C guy going to try to come back Saturday $$$$$.

Right now (10:45 PM), outside 88F, inside 87F, vent 74F.

I have a 91 ford ranger with a 3.0l V-6 engine.

I changed the a/c line on the compressor,it broke and shot freon all over me (R-12)– I changed the line,and cleaned all parts with denatured alcohol like I was told to do,I also replaced the drier,pressure switch and all "O" rings in the entire system,I bought a new compressor and shrater valve…Rented a vac.pump,pumped it down and recharged it with (R134 and ester 100 oil)—-It blew 39 degree air from the vents for 2 days then the a/c compressor locked up and burnt the belt off..What did I do wrong here?I would like to attempt it again,but it is expensive trail and error,What should I do next attempt to have great a/c like I did before?

Internal Compressor valve vs thermostatic expansion valve causing no refrigerant to take up in air conditioner?

I had two different technicians come out and the first one was newer. He said the problems seems to be with the internal compressor valve because here are the gauge readings: discharge pressure is 225 psi, suction scale decreases down to 15 & the compressor shuts down. When pressures equalize, compressor starts again and it keeps cycling. He tried to put refrigerant in and the system wouldn’t take. The 2nd technician said it’s the thermostatic expansion valve that can prevent the refrigerant from being taken into the compressor/system. Which way do you think it is? Would the readings be any different if it was the expansion valve vs internal compressor valve?
The second technician did say there was no freon or very low. I know both said the valves where they add the freon are leaking so those need to be replaced.
If it was just a leak and the valves were good, then there shouldn’t be a problem with adding refrigerant, right?
By valves, I meant the TXV and internal compressor valve. I am going to have a third opinion on this since the 2nd technician seems like he’s right, but he’s charging me 1100+ to replace all of my freon, replace TXV valve and schrader valves, and clean line drier (something like that). I just want to make sure that’s the cause before I spend so much.

The compressor works and it cools a little when the air conditioning button is pushed. It needs to be colder though. In my 1986 Grand am the system took the wrong type of freon, now they have a new kind or something. I am not sure, the heat is frying my brain.

recently i found i had no ac in my car , so first i figured it was low in freon. So i added some from walmart, and nothing happened. so i took the car to the shop they checked the ac system and told me that the compressor wasn’t engaging. so they vacuumed the system out and removed the Freon. so then i hot wired the compressor running a wire from the battery to the compressor with the ac on and car running nothing happened it didn’t engage at all so now i know the compressor is bad so i bought a new one and air dryer and plan to install myself. my question is once installed will i have to get the system vacuumed again or is it safe to just add the freon to the system once the new parts are installed? i been getting mixed answers and i wanna make sure i do it right. so does it need to be vacuumed again or can i just add the freon and be thru with it?

I am using a guage purchased at an automotive parts place and it reads 10psi and the system works, just not all that good. Added a can of freon and it seemed to get cooler. Then, since specs including dealer specs say to be at 45 psi and the freon package said to go above 24 psi, I added more. I think the guage was defective. So now as I added more to where the guage says it is near 20, my compressor made sounds when I turned on the AC, grinding sounds, but then the AC comes on. I think I should have stopped at one can additional freon. So I let off some pressure and the compressor does not make as much sound when it comes on now but still grinds a little. I am thinking that the guage I am using, although new, may be defective….kind of a come on for manufacturers to charge more?
So I need to get that guage checked and possibly sue the manufacturer of that guage for a faulty guage reading and get my system evacuated, orifice changed and check the compressor function, recharge

I moved my mobile home and the guys who were working on it cut the lines and let all the freon out and did not seal the lines. It sat for a few months and we hired a guy to come and solder (or whatever) the lines back together and recharge with R-22 freon. I was already told by 2 other guys that I would need a dryer. This guy has been doing it 20 years but this was a side job on a weekend. Is it possible that he just didn’t have access to a drier and wanted to make the money so he took the chance? Now he is trying to sell me a new outside central a/c unit! After about a month a wire came loose that goes to the blower fan in house and I was home and realized that the outdoor unit was running with no fan pushing it. There was frost all over the A-coil and I waited until it was melted and turned the air on and it worked fine for a week. THEN, I notice that it is not working well at all! It is not freezing up or nothing, just not pushing cold air all the time. And if I stand outside and listen to the unit, it sounds fine but every once in a while (frequent especially hottest part of day) it hisses and while doing this the outdoor fan sounds as if it is lacking juice and "bogs" out for a few seconds and then quits. After it started doing this, I went ahead and left it running today which was really hot and muggy out and when I walked in the house there was a very substantial temp difference! The thermostat read 79 like it usually does when it is that hot. By the way the thermostat is old and takes batteries, I have replaced them and pushed the reset button on it. It never has been very good. Could the thermostat be possibly telling that compressor to turn off and on real quick as in like a short or something? Also, just because the fan outside is running, is the compressor supposed to be running or does the compressor go off first (as in when it is working properly) and shortly after the fan (outside fan)? I am thinking this is more of an electrical issue, well at least I am hoping anyway.! By the way, it HAS NOT froze up ever except the time that the wire broke off the screw that was keeping the blower from blowing and allowing the outside unit to continue to run. And like I said, it ran for a week after all that happened and it was fine. What are the signs that the freon has been leaking out slow where the guy "soldered" the lines together? Thank you in advance for any help, we are miserable and also pretty broke!

changed out old compressor and had the receiver/drier changed out a year ago compressor when bad and changed it out again and ac if blowing cold air but not like before. thinking about changing the receiver/drier out maybe thats the problem but do i have to mess with the freon?

I took my car (2001 Ford Escape 6 cylinder) to a local shop and they told me that my lines from my compressor (manifold assembly) are leaking and the center seal on my compressor. Will Quest / 4 oz. Stop Leak work for this problem?? If not, what do you suggest. The shop quoted me 7 for lines, freon and labor or 0 for compressor, lines, drier, freon, and labor. The mechanic said that I don’t necessarily need the compressor or drier but he recommends I replace them as well!!!! Please help!! My husband has even consider replacing the lines and the seal and then filling it with "recharge". Please tell me the best thing to do that is price efficient.