I have a 91 ford ranger with a 3.0l V-6 engine.

I changed the a/c line on the compressor,it broke and shot freon all over me (R-12)– I changed the line,and cleaned all parts with denatured alcohol like I was told to do,I also replaced the drier,pressure switch and all "O" rings in the entire system,I bought a new compressor and shrater valve…Rented a vac.pump,pumped it down and recharged it with (R134 and ester 100 oil)—-It blew 39 degree air from the vents for 2 days then the a/c compressor locked up and burnt the belt off..What did I do wrong here?I would like to attempt it again,but it is expensive trail and error,What should I do next attempt to have great a/c like I did before?

I am trying to find the air ride compressor in my 97 ford explorer limited I think its somewhere behind the driver side tire I can here it run when i turn on the key. I just cant seem to find it, and also it only runs for about 30 secs and quits which i think is normal but when i turn the key off it kind of sounds like a deflating baloon and my check air ride system light comes on after driving for an hour or so. It has justed started doing this. When i first start it and press check system button it says the air ride is fine. It sounds like a leak comming from the compressor but Im not sure.Any input would be very helpful. Thanks

I am trying to find the air ride compressor in my 97 ford explorer limited I think its somewhere behind the driver side tire I can here it run when i turn on the key. I just cant seem to find it, and also it only runs for about 30 secs and quits which i think is normal but when i turn the key off it kind of sounds like a deflating baloon and my check air ride system light comes on after driving for an hour or so. It has justed started doing this. When i first start it and press check system button it says the air ride is fine. It sounds like a leak comming from the compressor but Im not sure.Any input would be very helpful. Thanks.

I need pistons and cylinder walls to rebuild my air conditioner compressor Ford FS10 it came off 94 ranger 4.0. A new one is 5 a Rebuilt is 0 and I dont want to spend that kind of $$$

I evacuated my a/c system in my Ford Contour SVT after I changed out the dryer and reserviced it with a can of oil and the appropriate amount of 134. did I need to use the oil charge or did I overservice the system? the cold air blew for a little bit but then noticed I had a leak at the compressor. Any insight on this?
I evacuated my a/c system in my Ford Contour SVT after I changed out the dryer and reserviced it with a can of oil and the appropriate amount of 134. did I need to use the oil charge or did I overservice the system? the cold air blew for a little bit but then noticed I had a leak at the compressor. Any insight on this? And I dont need some chump to tell me I dont know what Im doing. Ive taken my car to the dealership before on this issue and the so called master mechanics did nothing but take 0 out of my pocket. Im looking for answers, not criticism.

I took my car (2001 Ford Escape 6 cylinder) to a local shop and they told me that my lines from my compressor (manifold assembly) are leaking and the center seal on my compressor. Will Quest / 4 oz. Stop Leak work for this problem?? If not, what do you suggest. The shop quoted me 7 for lines, freon and labor or 0 for compressor, lines, drier, freon, and labor. The mechanic said that I don’t necessarily need the compressor or drier but he recommends I replace them as well!!!! Please help!! My husband has even consider replacing the lines and the seal and then filling it with "recharge". Please tell me the best thing to do that is price efficient.

Vulcan 21′ Steel Carrier SP8000H Sidepuller w/Wheel Lift 128010033 – Galvanized Subframe 124001416 – Steel Removable Rails, 10 Series 124007017 – Key Pkg, Stl, 10/15 Series SUSD48SSD – 18 X 18 X 48 Alum, Side Swing Door SUOT48 – 48″ Open Top Toolbox w/Mesh SUOT48TRIM – Stainless Front Trim On SUOT48 INSTALLATION – 10/15 Series TALAMAR – Hyd Oil Upgrade – 50 271GBHVP-B3XK – PTO, Allison, 2000, LH Side WIRELESS – Proportionate Winches (2) ITD-4150 – Flipper Foot – Side Puller 07718 – 3/4″ Shackle SP8000H – Sidepuller, Hyd Legs, Pylon 6I-4T4SC – 4 Ton Block w/Chain 6I-4T4 – 4 Ton Block 32036 – J-Chains, G80 11-8TJG7 – V-Chain Assembly X5898ALS – Lightbar, Amber AG-R – Work Light, Swivel HL-96069 – Hook Up Lights HL-90609 – Work Lights @ Winch LED KIT – Cent/Champ Stl, Upgrade, ZIPS 8-IP-2 – 8 Switch Panel MIN1900B – Maximizer Fenders, Black, 19.5″ MF7240 – Mudflaps, 18L X 24W, ZIPS ZIP-10 – Tow Light Kit – Round Magnets TOP HATS KIT – 19.5″ IH Alum Rims 6106 – Garbage Can, 6 Gallon BROOM – w/Storage Bracket SHOVEL – With Bracket VIN# 3FRWF65H68V079447 Cummins ISB 6.7L 260 HP Diesel Allison 2200 Automatic Transmission CA 144″, WB 218″ GVW 26000# GVWF 8500#, GVWR 17500# XLT Cab Trim Package Air Brakes, Air Compressor Air Ride Suspension Axle Ratio 4.33 Air Conditioning AM/FM/CD Stereo Radio Vinyl Air Ride Drivers Seat w/High Back Vinyl 2-Man Passenger Seat Front Tow Hooks Chrome Bumper/Grille Power Swing Out Mirrors w/Convex Mirrors Aluminum Wheels Air Dryer w/Heater Engine …

I have a ’95 Ford F-350 with a E4OD electronic 4-speed automatic transmission. First I dropped the pan and opened the drain plug on the torque converter. I disconnected the transmission lines from the transmission and removed the in-line filter. I used that kooler cleaner solvent flush in a can and connected it to the feed line and flushed the lines and cooler out of where the inline filter was connected. Then I tried to blow out the solvent residue with the air compressor. I used 120psi and put a rag in front of the nozzel to catch any water spray coming out of the compressor. Would that much pressure damage the system?

I put the new filters in and reconnected the lines and filled it up with transmission fluid. Would the air in the lines and cooler cause problems?

Would the cooler purge itself of the air or do I have to bleed it manually somehow?

Would the residue of that kooler kleaner be bad for the transmission?

Yesterday my check air ride system warning in my 97 Ford explorer limited come on after driving for about an hour or two and when I either turn the key off or turn the air ride switch off thenback on its fine again for another 3 or 4 hours does anyone have any idea why this is, I checked for leaks and I dont hear anything and the compressor works just fine in other words my air ride works great.

VIN# 3FRXF75G09V174475 CA 207″, WB 281″ Cummins 6.7L ISB 325 HP Diesel Allison 3000RDS 6 Speed Automatic Axle Ratio 5.29 XLT Cab Trim Package GVW 33000# GVWF 12000#, GVWR 21000# XLT Cab Trim Package Spring Suspension Air Brakes/Air Compressor/Air Dryer Front Tow Hooks Lighted Swing Out Mirrors 8″ Spot Mirrors Dual 50 Gallon Steel Fuel Tanks Air Conditioning Aluminum Wheels Air Horn Chrome Bumper/Grille Steel Wheels LH Fuel Tank AM/FM/CD Stereo Radio Cruise Control/Tilt Wheel Power Windows/Door Locks Cloth Air Ride High Back Drivers Seat w/RH Arm Rest Cloth 2 Man High Back Passenger Seat Rubber Floor Mat Color: WHITE Front Tires: 295/75R22.5 (Hankook) Rear Tires: 295/75R22.5 (Hankook) Century 22′ Steel 3-Car Carrier w/ Wheel Lift SN 222S-09780-PB08 122020023 – 102″ Wide Body 124001427 – Smooth Steel Floor 124007017 – 6 Piece Key Slot Package 07530 – Safety Walk Non-Slip Surface 6″ Wide 124002375 – Aluminum Over The Cab Rack 128441996 – Planetary 8000# Winch AUSD48 – Aluminum Toolbox 48″ x 18″ x 18″ 277XGFJP-B5XK – PTO, Allison, 3000 Series 11-8DT – 1 Pair V-Chain Assembly w/Short Grade 70 J-Hooks 32036 PR – 3 Pair Grade 70 5/16″ x 10′ Chains 621-W – 2 Pair 4″ Rubber Halogen Work/Rear Hook Up Lights 4-IP-2 – 4 Switch Panel MF7240 – Zip’s Logo Rubber Mud Flaps 17.5″ x 24″ SL-9 – Tow Light Kit NH2512 – Simulators New 3-Car Carrier Century 15 Series 22′ Steel 2009 Ford F750 for sale by Zip’s Truck Equipment, Inc.