I have a 2005 Maxima SE and the A/C is blowing hot air. I have recharged it twice and it’s not holding a charge. I took it to the shop and they found a leak in the low side hose, and I had them replace it. They recharged it again and blew slightly cool air (not cold air like it used to) for a few days before it went back to blowing hot air, and the guy at the shop told me that the compressor was on its way out. He also told me that if you replace the compressor you need to replace the expansion valves and dryer as well.

I spoke to another mechanic who said as long as the compressor isn’t locked up then there isn’t a need to replace the other two parts.

Whose advice should I take, and is replacing the compressor something that I could do myself?

My in-room A/C has three modes: Cool, Dry and Fan. It has one exhaust hose for heat, that is removeable. According to the manual, the exhaust hose must be n place during cool mode. It says nothing of the other two modes with regard to the exhaust hose. Now, this hose has a window attachment for dispelling heat to the outside of the house and that works great for using the unit cool mode. Here is my problem; We already have central air in the new house, so the a/c portion of the unit is not needed but we still need to use the dehumidifier (dry mode). In dry mode, the unit still puts out cold air from the usual vent and blows hot air out of the exhaust vent. However, in this mode, I cannot set a thermostat level (digital thermostat) and the digital readout only gives a measure of the ambient room temperature. I want to run this unit in my living room, but I don’t want to run this unsightly exhaust hose to my window in order to vent the heat. I want it to operate as a stand alone dehumidifier without a vent hose. Will this work without overloading the compressor? Is this typical of standalone dehumidifiers? Any help is appreciated. This was a 0 unit new, so I don’t want to ruin it. Thanks in advance.

The A/C in our Chrysler Town & Country has suddenly stopped blowing cold. The compressor is working as the pressure looks good, but no cold air from the front or rear units. My guess is that the expansion valve has blocked and needs to be replaced along with the drier. Any directions on how to get to the expansion valve would be appreciated.

2000 Dodge Stratus 2.5L V6
After we had the dash all ripped apart to replace the leaky evaporator coil, found out that the expansion valve was leaky so replaced that too. Put all new o-rings on all the lines going to the compressor, receiver/drier & reconnected clips on expansion valve. After all was put together and tight, we put a vacuum on it and it held well after about 45 minutes so we recharged it with the 19 oz. of R134a that was specified. Started up my car and turned on the A/C and it was blowing cold air. But when I got out and started actually driving it it still blew hot air and still does to this day. Any ideas as to why? Guessing there’s still a leak somewhere, or maybe a faulty A/C compressor or I heard the receiver/drier should be replaced after being exposed to open air like that, could that be causing it? Thanks in advance, any ideas are appreciated.
The expansion valve outlet was bent & loose going to the A/C compressor.
Also me and a friend of mine did this all at a school I went to for Automotive, hooked it up to a Snap-On A/C machine.

Installed new a/c compressor, dryer, and low pressure switch.I have a new high pressure switch but traced a/c lines all over the car and cant find where it goes. When i check for codes it has code 21 (solar sensor circuit)but says that will not turn a/c off? When I turn a/c on a/c relay will get power and power up the compressor and after a few seconds compressor shuts down, and no more power to the relay and a/c light blinks. I can turn it off and right back on and will do the same thing. If i keep power to compressor the a/c blows cold air and pressures are good. System is charged with 1.9lbs of 134a. Car is new to me and I have no history to go on. Started with locked compressor blowing fuse for a/c control head. Any suggestions?

I evacuated my a/c system in my Ford Contour SVT after I changed out the dryer and reserviced it with a can of oil and the appropriate amount of 134. did I need to use the oil charge or did I overservice the system? the cold air blew for a little bit but then noticed I had a leak at the compressor. Any insight on this?
I evacuated my a/c system in my Ford Contour SVT after I changed out the dryer and reserviced it with a can of oil and the appropriate amount of 134. did I need to use the oil charge or did I overservice the system? the cold air blew for a little bit but then noticed I had a leak at the compressor. Any insight on this? And I dont need some chump to tell me I dont know what Im doing. Ive taken my car to the dealership before on this issue and the so called master mechanics did nothing but take 0 out of my pocket. Im looking for answers, not criticism.

I moved my mobile home and the guys who were working on it cut the lines and let all the freon out and did not seal the lines. It sat for a few months and we hired a guy to come and solder (or whatever) the lines back together and recharge with R-22 freon. I was already told by 2 other guys that I would need a dryer. This guy has been doing it 20 years but this was a side job on a weekend. Is it possible that he just didn’t have access to a drier and wanted to make the money so he took the chance? Now he is trying to sell me a new outside central a/c unit! After about a month a wire came loose that goes to the blower fan in house and I was home and realized that the outdoor unit was running with no fan pushing it. There was frost all over the A-coil and I waited until it was melted and turned the air on and it worked fine for a week. THEN, I notice that it is not working well at all! It is not freezing up or nothing, just not pushing cold air all the time. And if I stand outside and listen to the unit, it sounds fine but every once in a while (frequent especially hottest part of day) it hisses and while doing this the outdoor fan sounds as if it is lacking juice and "bogs" out for a few seconds and then quits. After it started doing this, I went ahead and left it running today which was really hot and muggy out and when I walked in the house there was a very substantial temp difference! The thermostat read 79 like it usually does when it is that hot. By the way the thermostat is old and takes batteries, I have replaced them and pushed the reset button on it. It never has been very good. Could the thermostat be possibly telling that compressor to turn off and on real quick as in like a short or something? Also, just because the fan outside is running, is the compressor supposed to be running or does the compressor go off first (as in when it is working properly) and shortly after the fan (outside fan)? I am thinking this is more of an electrical issue, well at least I am hoping anyway.! By the way, it HAS NOT froze up ever except the time that the wire broke off the screw that was keeping the blower from blowing and allowing the outside unit to continue to run. And like I said, it ran for a week after all that happened and it was fine. What are the signs that the freon has been leaking out slow where the guy "soldered" the lines together? Thank you in advance for any help, we are miserable and also pretty broke!

and the compressor doesn’t turn on. is it gone?
Ok so i reconnected the wires (was disconnected) and ran the system and it blowed cold air for about 3 minutes and then went back to blowing hot air. I don’t think I heard the "click" though.

changed out old compressor and had the receiver/drier changed out a year ago compressor when bad and changed it out again and ac if blowing cold air but not like before. thinking about changing the receiver/drier out maybe thats the problem but do i have to mess with the freon?

I have a 6 year old central air unit. Last night it began a new malfunction. The air handler/blower fan operates fine and the outside unit runs fine but not at the same time. As soon as the compressor kicks in to srt blowing cold air, the air handler fan shuts off. If you raise them temp setting so the compressor kicks off, the air handler fan starts.

The drip pan is dry and the switch there is not tripped.

The compressor has a new capapcitor changed 5 months ago.

I installed a new thrmostat last night and it ran okay one time. After that it was the same old thing.

I’m thinking the problem is the control board, but that’s in the attic and I haven’t had a chance to look at it yet.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks