I need help with my 2003 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor. It has over 200,000 miles and the compressor finally stopped working. For the longest time it was making a loud
WHAAAAAAA sound then just this Sunday night, it decided to stop. When I checked it out, there was smoke coming from the pulley in front of the compressor. It was late and I was tired from work, so I decided to
let the engine cool over night and to check it in the morning. Well, the next day comes around and I opened the hood and started the car. Then I turned on the AC to see what’s going on with it. Either the pulley or
compressor was sparking and there was dry, warm air coming out of the vents.

I’m going down to the junk yard tomorrow to get a "new" compressor and pulley. Is there any other parts I need to pull? And do I need any special tools? As for regular tools, what will I need? I’m only an amateur when
it comes to working on cars, but I’m still young enough to become an expert. Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I restore cars and trucks for a hobbie. I have a large Ingersoll compressor with a Detroit 3-53 diesel I use to sandblast.
I primarily use 2 different blasters. One takes 300lbs of black slag and the other approx 150 lbs.
My problem has always been MOISTURE.
It drives me nuts and can really screw up a blasting job and take forever.
I do have water traps at each compressor,but nothing fancy.
I’m thinking of building some sort of air dryer/chiller or something. Does anyone have any good remedies or tips?
The compressor puts out a steady 120 PSI.

I took my 1990 Lincoln Towncar to be smog tested yesterday. It passed everything except Air Inj System. The guy said that it is missing!! What the hell is that and how do I fix it? I believe my boyfriend said something about the A/C being taken out. One mechanic said something about a pulley and a belt needing to be replaced, I asked if he would do it and he said he knows how but it would be too much work and he’d rather not do it!! Anyone know what’s going on and how to help?? I know NOTHING about cars!! Also, he mentioned something about a compressor, i don’t really remember much of his suggestions, everything he said was in "auto" terms and was like a foreign language to me!! Please someone tell me what is wrong, if I can fix it myself(have someone do it) or if it’s something only a mechanic can do.

It was under the "Tamper" section. I love in NV. It isn’t the catalytic converter, that is on there. It’s

My son has been collecting tools to start working on cars in the garage and has a few air tools. We were thinking about giving him a compressor for Christmas, but I don’t want to rewire the garage for 220. Any suggestions?
Te wife is giving me a 0.00 spending limit….and the boy wants a 30 gal….says the air would run out too fast.
The wife is giving me a 0.00 spending limit….and the boy wants a 30 gal….says the air would run out too fast.
He’s restoring a japanese microcar

OK. I asked a similar question several years ago, but after more research I still don’t have a satisfying answer. So this time around, please bear with me as I give very specific details. Maybe that will help get the answer I need:

The short of it is that I’m trying to figure out how long an air compressor on a locomotive would take to bring the pressure in the brake system of a train from 14.7 psia (atmosphere) to 90 psia.

Suppose the train consists of 100 cars. Each car is 50 feet long. The main brake pipe has an internal diameter of 1 inch. Let’s call the piping on each car 60 feet long to account for secondary pipes, the additional length of hose to couple one car to the next, etc… Using the formula:

V = pi * r^2 * L

we can determine the volume of the pipe on a single car is 47.123 cu. in., or 0.027 cu. ft. (47.123 / 1728).

It is a pretty consistent fact in the railroad industry that each car also has a "service" and "emergency" air reservoir with a combined volume of 6000 cu. in, or 3.47 cu. ft. This give us a total volume per freight car of 3.499 cu. ft. Multiply that by 100 cars and the locomotive compressor needs to pressurize basically 350 cu. ft.

Now here’s where I have a problem: I have a locomotive manual sitting in front of me that says the on-board air compressor "capacity" is 254 cu. ft. / minute. My assumption (probably wrong) up to this point has been that the "capacity" is the pressurized output. But theoretically that would mean the entire 100-car train could be pressurized in about 1.37 minutes (350/254).

If the "capacity" is actually an intake figure, would there be a way to calculate the rate of outflow? Perhaps 254 cuft / [90psi / 14.7psi atmosphere] = 41.48 cuft / min outflow?

If the above is legit, that still only gets me half way to where I need to be. 350 cuft / 41.48 = 8.43 minutes. But all my research both via articles and talking to actual railroad engineers suggests it can take better than 15 minutes to pressurize the system.

Additional consideration is that a train almost never has just 1 locomotive. That 100-car train may have 3, each with an air compressor contributing to the system. Divide that 8.43 minutes by 3 contributing compressors and I’m back down under 3 minutes — WAY short of that 15-minute mark.

Can anyone shed some light on what I’m missing in my thought process? Thanks in advance.
Response to Ecko:

I know the train charge time isn’t properly provided. In part that’s because there is no single answer. There are too many factors — temperature, humidity, length of train, leakage in the connections between each car, etc… I’m just trying to get a ballpark formula. When my first-hand sources agree that 15 minutes is a reasonable time and the best I can come up with is 8 minutes, something has to be off in my assumptions.

The links you provided look very promising. Looks like I have a lot of reading to do

I replaced the Air-Cond; Compressor and Dryer—-moving to Firewall High Press; tube,
after Disconnect ;I am looking for Valve like the Tapered Screen one the Parts book showed;There is a Problem ,I am looking t a Smaller tube inside the High Press; tube,I have no been able to remove at this Time;I am Stopped until I hear from a Mechanic;What is the Answer?Thanks
Joe good Information and the cars I have worked on have what You say—-But this Lincoln Continatal has a Differant Orfice ,it is a smaller tube within in a the High Press tube also location in 12 inches down from bac side of Eng,Mirror and Light–also this tube is tight against the Wall of h.Press tube,I have not been able to get clearance for Needle Nose Pliers ,wh is
a very good Suggestion,The orfice tube is also 1 inch from the end.

Here is a video on performing a compression test on an engine to assess it’s mechanical condition. An engines ability to compress air and fuel is directly proportional to it’s performance since an engine is nothing more than an air compressor once you take away all the controls. A compression test is a good general test that will give you an idea of the engine’s overall health but it does not give specific information on what the problem is should there be one, for that a “leak down test” would be required, I’ll be doing a video on that sometime in the future. However if you find yourself looking for the source of a performance problem with an engine, this is a great place to start. This test is often overlooked in favor of looking at the fuel or ignition system, I think that’s a mistake, if an engine can’t perform mechanically no amount of electronics will make that better. Recently, I hit the 500 subscriber mark and I’d like to thank all of my subscribers past, present, and hopefully in the future for that. I enjoy making these videos and the fact that you seem to like watching them means a lot to me. So, thanks for subscribing, rating, and commenting, those little contributions make it all worth while. Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com ericthecarguy.com Also see the video I did, “Octane Ratings and the 4 Stroke Engine Cycle” for more information on how compression works and why it is important. www.youtube.com Thanks for watching andstay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond …

would that be good enough to do car tires and light stuff on cars

Took my 2000 Lincoln Ls to a local shop I take my cars to. The intent was to recharge my AC, the gauge showed it had no freon. So 3 can of freon later, it continued to blow hot air. The compressor and clutch were working but no cold air. The shop feels although the compressor is working, it’s not doing enough to produce cold air. A new compressor is suggested, which is expensive on this car. Supposedly, it’s strongly suggested a new condenser and dryer should be purchase as well or warranty on new compressor will be void. Something about this particular system cannot be coompletely flushed so all new is practically demanded. Although this shop has done great work for me, they’ve miscalculated a few times as anyone would I guess. I believe I should confirm this at dealer before I start replacing parts. What is your take on this.
To Paul: The shop suspects compressor is leaking but they still seemed to be a little stumped when stating this.

how can i troubleshoot the air ride system the cars fron tend was on jack satnd is there a way to reset the system